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Before the City Wakes: A Week Eating Saigon's Secret Pre-Dawn Street Food

Before the City Wakes: A Week Eating Saigon's Secret Pre-Dawn Street Food

Most tourists eat Saigon's street food in daylight. But set your alarm for 4 a.m. and you'll find a parallel food universe — one built for market workers and motorbike drivers, run by vendors who've been feeding this city since before most people's grandparents were born. I spent a week inside it, and I haven't stopped thinking about it since.